Arvchived articles in reverse order. You can post message from Top page.

Date: Tue Apr 27 00:28:06 2004
Name: Stan

Don, what do you mean the starter works but the engine does not turn over?
Is the non starting problem just after you changed the plugs? or after your long ride.
Backfiring during starting tells me the plug leads are mixed up. But this would only be true if the plugs where just changed.

Stan

Date: Sun Apr 25 09:51:56 2004
Name: Yutaka Yasuda
Email: yasuda@bakkers.gr.jp
URL: http://bakkers.gr.jp/~yasuda/CBX/bbs/bbse-i.html
Type: CBX 400F

Hi my friend, Don,
I am glad to see you again here. :-) How are you? I hope you and your family are all fine. So now my CBX is running around my home town, Kyoto city.

Anyway, wrong plugs is possible to make backfire. And please check the electric issue. Plug caps and cables too if wires are original. And coils and...

I hope your CBX will be back soon!
Yutaka Yasuda, Kyoto, Japan.
P.S.
Please let me know your current email address, I will send photos of me and my wife. :-)

Date: Sun Apr 25 03:36:27 2004
Name: Don Kennett
Type: CBX 550F

1983 Red and white

I took my bike out of storage, closed the carb drains, changed the oil and filter, put in new plugs and got it started. I went for a long ride. I do this every year

Now, my bike will not start. The starter is working but the bike only backfires. The engine will not turn over.

The battery is brand new. Any ideas on what I can try?
Would the wrong plugs cause this problem? I bought them directly from a Honda Dealer


Don
Vancouver Canada

Date: Fri Apr 23 04:43:47 2004
Name: 
Email: basmaf@ntlworld.com
Type: CBX 550F

Hi Stan
Thanks for the info, it will come in usefull, belive me.
I followed the manual correctly, or so I thought.
All the parts were from Honda, plates, springs, and 2 pressure plates, and bearings, from Dave Silver.
I will have to strip the basket down again.
I broke 2 pressure plates whilst re-fitting.
I have only ever broken 2 pressure plates, ever, in over 20 years.
I also followed the pressure plate instructions very carefully.

I am still after a spare plate if anybody has one please?

The anti-chatter ring, I think, fits so the inside of the ring is towards the back of the basket, and the outside of the ring is pointing away from the engine, yes?
Thanks
-Basmaf

Date: Fri Apr 23 02:01:23 2004
Name: Stan
Email: Winchesternoguns@aol.com
Type: CBX 550F

Basmaf, I assume that you checked the plates for warpage and installed all the parts in correctly.
You may have an installation issue with the anti-chatter spring.
You will notice that one friction plate is different than the others. It is narrower to allow a steel ring (anti-chatter ring) to fits inside. On some aftermarket friction plates I noticed that the skinnier friction plate does not allow the spring to fit due to production tolerances. Check that the spring ring fits freely inside, if not remove the burrs on the inside on the friction plate.
To avoid breakage of the pressure plate, loosen and tighten the bolts in a cross pattern one to two turns at a time to maintain even pressure on all four springs.

Date: Thu Apr 22 05:23:29 2004
Name: Basmaf@ntlworld.com
Type: CBX 550F

Hi Chaps.
Does anybody know why, after replacing the clutch plates, and springs, my CBX is an absolute pig to get into neutral when she is warm?
I have to nearly kick the lever from first, to second, and hope....
I have checked the free play on the lever, and the clutch bites right at the end of travel.
I have changed the oil.
The clutch is not slipping.
What have I missed, or done wrong?
I am now down to stripping the clutch down again, and rechecking, but before I do, I was also wondering if anybody has a spare release plate, and bearing for sale.
I snapped 2 when I did this last time, so want to be prepared this time.
Thanks
-Basmaf

Date: Thu Apr 22 05:23:06 2004
Name: Basmaf@ntlworld.com
Type: CBX 550F

Hi Chaps.
Does anybody know why, after replacing the clutch plates, and springs, my CBX is an absolute pig to get into neutral when she is warm?
I have to nearly kick the lever from first, to second, and hope....
I have checked the free play on the lever, and the clutch bites right at the end of travel.
I have changed the oil.
The clutch is not slipping.
What have I missed, or done wrong?
I am now down to stripping the clutch down again, and rechecking, but before I do, I was also wondering if anybody has a spare release plate, and bearing for sale.
I snapped 2 when I did this last time, so want to be prepared this time.
Thanks
-Basmaf

Date: Sat Apr 17 08:13:29 2004
Name: Richard W.
Type: CBX 550F

Hi,
I've killed my No.4 Inlet cam cap.
I overtightened the cam cover bolt ( back rightside one ) and shattered the alloy cap where the threads are for the cam cover bolt. OOps.

HAS ANYONE got one for sale?
if not,
Are they available new?

It's kind of urgent, as I just got my CarbtuneII kit today, and was just going through the checks before the sync.

checked valve clearances ( thats how i managed to kill the cap.. now i wish i'd just done them tight by hand and not tried to do them to the torque specified in the manual.. doh! ), did plugs etc.... they where a bit black, but that'd be because i only ran the motor 5 mins last time sat on it's centre stand. Opened the drains.. nice clean fuel came out all four carbs.

just ned to seal a slight blow in the exhaust header to head area, and i'm ready to sync my carbs.. ( lets see if this gets rid of the death rattle/loud clatter )

Oh I WISH i'd only don those bolts by hand !!!!

So anyone got a no.4 in cam cap for me to buy?

I'm in the Lake District/Cumbria England U.K.

oh Hi Chris by the way.. :)

Date: Sat Apr 17 03:24:26 2004
Name: Mok Chee Woei
Email: mok1@tm.net.my
Type: Other CBX

Ineed the diagram of wiring for cbx-750 (police model)and the windsheild.

Date: Tue Apr 13 05:58:24 2004
Name: 

I thought that was a typo. It obviously doesn't display the Pound sign. They cost me fifty pounds but it doesn't really matter now. (And my typing is poo too)

Date: Tue Apr 13 03:38:11 2004
Name: 

See below.

I didnt by them for 0, They were 0.

Date: Tue Apr 13 03:36:21 2004
Name: Chris Harwood
Email: mr.harwood@blueyonder.co.uk
Type: CBX 400F2 (Integra)

Hi all. Thanks for your help. Its been a while (my last messgae is on the bottom of this page and at the top of the prev)

I see we have a new friend, hello richard!

Your bike seems to be emitting the same noises as mine was a few weeks ago. It was recommended that i check the carbs. Good job I did as they were full of shite and bike started much better after cleaning the jets. My noise was as if the bike was only firing on three cylinders and was a pig to start.

My HT leads had also perished in the weather (32k miles). I bought the whole ignition system, spark unit, coils and leads (along with fornt and rear calipers and disks) for 0 of a chap on ebay. Once fitted and the batery topped up and charged all is now fine. Fires up straight away and sounds smoother than a silient fart. (cam chain rattle just in on its way though).

The chap I bought the parts from is breaking a '83 550 F2,
I dont want to post his address so email me if you want it, he may have some bits that could be of use.

Well. I'll keep popping in but as my bike is super fine, i hope i wont be asking for help too soon!

Take it easy everyone.

Chris, Plymouth, UK.

Date: Mon Apr 12 07:39:30 2004
Name: dave

Richard
yes that's 20mm long, and thay have to have a hole up 'em for the air ,my cbx ran great on metzelers and the battlaxs are fine on my vfr ,not tried them on the cbx, someone on the list recomended a 120 on the rear but I once oversized the rear on another bike and it became a pig round corners with the tyre sqirming.
dave

Date: Mon Apr 12 05:36:43 2004
Name: Richard W.
Type: CBX 550F

Just found this ! ( whilst looking for alternative indicators. funny how things go eh..

OXON MONO SHOCK ABSORBERS. REAR
BBSHKMON557 HONDA CBX550 / 750 352mm ( eye to eye length )
PRICE - 7.49

http://biker-bitz.co.uk/products/15suspension/shocks.htm
worth a look aye.. but the're not air adjustable. just with 'C' spanners, and they're rebuildable! yay ! Things are looking up.... pitty it's not an OEM type though as I'd prefer to keep the bik estock looking as much as possible.

Date: Mon Apr 12 04:47:58 2004
Name: Richard W.
Email: applecart2000@yahoo.com
Type: CBX 550F

Cheers Dave!

So thats 20mm depth not diameter?
I can get some turned up if anyone cares to draw me a picture with dimensions on. My next door neighbour has a lathe, drill press etc.. ( very handy! ) Please let me know if these spacewrs are solid, or have a hole through them ( like a polomint/dohnut )

Sounds like I might get away with a shock mount extrension then for the rear. Not quite sure what you meant about 'shackles' though ??

Might be ok to weld a mount straight onto the shock base/original mounting area/tube... I'll have to play at experimenting with the length of extension as I dont want to end up like a supermoto! I'll be happy with the official 785mm seat height. I'll just have to play it by ear.

Thanks again.... most useful knowing it's ok to do, and someone out there is using a bike that way, and is'nt dead!

-----
On a quick question of tyres.. any favourites and sizes?
I've searched all over, and although the metzeler 33 up front and me99 rear are brilliant handling. I just dont like the look of them . ( oh how vain )
The Bridgestone Battlax BT45's look good as they match F+R, and I've read more good than bad about them, so I'd put them in second place for handling on the CBX550F ( just from what i've read )
I know standard sizes are 90/90-18 front, and 110/90-18 rear.. but I was wondering if it'd be ok to use 100/90-18 front, and 120/90-18 rear ? ( or 120/80-18 rear ). any thoughts? and have any of you lot had those sizes on, with no modifications or problems? My rims are regular comstar 2.15 inch.

What a job I had trying to find and buy an 18mm plug spanner/socket! All the local shops ( halfords, Partco etc.. even the local bike sales/repair/service shop did'nt have that size. I was amazed that even halfords did'nt sell an 18mm deep socket, there range jumps from 17 to 19.
Eventually I ordered one from Draper, but it wont be here until Thursday 15th at the earliest! ( boo hoo ).

So until then, I can't touch my plugs or do a compression check.... that means my week is resigned < sp?> to cleaning and the likes. I dont want to go head on into the suspension etc. until I've got her running smoothly, and the carbs balanced up... If there are anymore clatters/knocks etc, after the carbs are cleaned and balanced, I might think again about doing it now, and instead go find myself a taxed and tested bike to spend summer on; doing the CBX as and when funds and my mood allows. ( i dont like to rush things, I like to get things right first time, so they dont need doing again. )


keep smiling :o)

Date: Sun Apr 11 23:54:47 2004
Name: dave

Richard
like you when i first took my cbx on the road it felt tiny, but jacking up the rear transformed it, at my first attempt I tried to be clever and fitted a slotted shox mounting on the frame, but over a period of time the bike slid down to it's original height !I then knocked up a couple of shackles ( car style ) as a temp fix ( it's still on ) and that worked ok , if I was doing it again i'd fab a decent shox extension , as for the front end my springs were within spec but the front end "drooped" so I fitted the 20 mm spacers , I think I made mine out of an old bit of pipe, the material doesn't matter so long as they're the same size as the springs, when you do this you'll find it a bit tricky replacing the fork tops, I cut a piece of pipe to help push the caps down
as for the dipstick just rest it on the engine case , don't screw it in to check engine oil
dave

Date: Sun Apr 11 10:23:19 2004
Name: Richard W.
Type: CBX 550F

Hmmm? thats odd.

Oh, I pumped rear shock to max also ( hoping i'd regain the two inches ( 50mm ) i seem to be short of in seat height...) Nope.... So I guess that I'll have to start looking for an aftermarket shocker, or find out more about the 1986 VFR750 rear shock setup with differnt poundage spring.

I considered lengthening the original shock
( attatching / welding a new upper or lower mounting point ) but I guess thats not much use as the spring / damping wont be acceptable in use.

My haynes manual says a 785mm ( 30.9 in ) seat height, and mine a good 50mm short of this ( unladen ), and it makes all the difference to the geometry and riding position.
It drops to 705mm once i'm sat onboard. it feels un-natural.
The shock stil works, and it damps and it's not springy like a shock with no oil. it's just LOW! ( has less travel )...
Anyone know what length END TO END it's meant to be? Is it 270mm ?

thanks....... Oh i'll try to stop asking Soooo many questions! I'm sure I must be BEYOND annoying by now.

Date: Sun Apr 11 10:06:12 2004
Name: Richard W.
Type: CBX 550F

Hi Rob,
No.. i did'nt miss those.... or the HBT4.wav ( 392k ) found elsewhere!

The passing sound is'nt much use to someone trying to diagnose anything, nor is the revving..

still good to hear though. They (soundfiles ) are what brought me to this message board..
I originally had done a 'google' for a CBX soundfile ( as i was considering purchasing one at the time, and wanted to hear one. As I could'nt just pop into my local two wheeled supplyers and find one.... the web was the only way! )

I ordered a Carbtune II in the early hours of yesterday morning ( link found on Basmaf's site ) so that should be an aid to my problem solving. ( and it'll have paid for itself after two balances worth )

I need someone with a GOOD silent ( no camchain rattle, no dodgy clutch noise etc.. ) motor to record a steady 1200rpm tickover from the clutch housing side of the bike. That'd be GREAT! if it was from about a foot away ( 30cm for you euro types )

I always chuckle ( else I'd cry ) when a manual says check a component for wear, against a new component for comparison! heh heh heh . yeah. like we're all going to go out, buy the parts, that we might not need, just to see if ours is worn.

Nobody knows what somethings meant to look like till they've seen a new part. ( excluding obvious wear, gorging, burring, scoring etc.. )

I was rolling the bike up and down the back yard today freeing up the front calipers a bit, when i noticed there's a seriously worn rubber/metal bush that attatches to the caliper/antidive are of the front setup. Its on the short black bar ( there's two bushes ) not the longer silver bar.

Anyone know the part numbers? I think someone said that Honda dealers dont carry the microfiche for the CBX550F now, so I'd be wasting a journey travelling forty miles to the nearest Honda outlet.

I see there's a very long part numbers list ( stock list ) at David Silvers... and that place i mentioned ( john oldfields ). but without knowing the part numbers for stuff, i'm a bit stuck.

I put max air in front forks today, adn wound antidive to No.4....... it's a LITTLE better. but not much. my forks dont leak... so I guess my springs are shot.

I've seen mention of the 20mm spacers here several times...
Anyone have a photo or a diagram of the actual spacers? and where they go exactly?

If i have to have them made up, do i use anodized alloy, stainless steel, or what? I asume mild steel is out of the question? due to rusting/corrosion.

In the Haynes manual..... it says when checking your oil level. do not screw the plug/dipstick in...????? so does that mean just unscrew. wipe it, slip it in, to where the plastic threads just touch the casing, then pull it out again? it's not clear in the book. ( this haynes manual is VERY vague in spots )

Every post i ..err.. post. seems to come up twice. this is very annoying, and cant be much fun for you lot either.. How can i stop this happening?

??? :-) ???

Date: Sun Apr 11 00:48:14 2004
Name: rob
Type: CBX 550F2 (Integra)

Hi Richard
you may have read all of the posts, but looks like you missed this....

http://bakkers.gr.jp/~yasuda/CBX/gallery/sound.html

rob

Date: Sat Apr 10 02:16:39 2004
Name: Richard W.
Type: CBX 550F

Hi Stan and Dave, Thanks for the comments.

My haynes manual came today; already read it front to back. Not amazingly helpfull.. unless of course you want to strip and rebuild the motor and box. and not much else!
Still, at least i've got torque wrench settings now etc..

I nearly bought a pair of RAASK rearsets for the bike, but at the last minute decided against it, as i'd lose my nice shiny allow hangers, for the black painted steel ones in the kit. Pitty, as the pegs and pedals in the kit where all nice and shiny alloy, drilled, knurled etc..

I think i'll look out for some front alloy foldable footpegs ( not the round variety though I'm not keen on those )

I think i should make a few sound recordings of the bike running so people can hear whats happening.

This thought lead me on to wonder why nobody has got soundfiles of a NORMAL/as it should be, cbx550f/f2 on a website...???? it'd be very handy to know what a NORMAL mint bike motor sounds like !

I'll experiment with the laptop and a cheap mic, and if it seems like it's going to work out, i'll have a hunt round for a better quality mic so i can record the full sound spectrum, and not just the upper frequencies as most cheap mic's do.

Having no under-cover working space. I'm very limited in what i can do, and it's been raining all week.. UGh!

I checked my front forks again today, and the hissy noise ( pumping them up and down ) is just the right-side fork gaitor ( phew! )

I found a website for genuine spares, but it's all by part number only, so unless you know the part number you need. you're stuffed!
http://www.johnoldfield.co.uk (telephone.. oh. you'll KNOW why i'm doing it this way..

zero, two, three, eight, zero, six, three, zero, three, two, six.

He's a main dealer for Yuasa and Agip apparently, and ships world wide.

Have'nt been able to compare his prices yet, as i dont have any part numbers to compare with !

I've had a mate round to hear the bike running, and he agree's the most noise ( clatter ) seems to be coming from the clutch cover area. Whilst in neutral, if you lightly lift the clutch lever armeture ( attatched to the cover ) taking up the slight play, you can FEEL the clatter, like a shaft slopping about in a bearing, or not quite engaged teeth of a cog etc.. i.e. it's a constant feedback, evenly spaced, not erratic or intermitent.
Pulling the clutch lever ( on handlebar ) i can get the noise to diminish slightly, and if i pop it into gear and begin to relaease the lever slowly, but not so much as to start the rear wheel turning.. it goes much quieter ( the clatter )..... Does this sound like a worn/knackered clutch bearing? or maybe knackered/worn clutch? ( although i can put it into gear, and apply the rear brake ( whilst on centre stand ) and not get clutch slip.

I'm going to investigate further, by removing the front chain sprocket, to see if thats the problem ( worn? looks ok ) then press down on the sprockets shaft whilst in neutral, to see if it's play in the output bearing.

Oh, ! it's stopped raining! I better get out and check those plugs!

I've got to put an order into David Silvers, and it'd be best to get as much as possible in one go, without having to buy stuff i dont need!

Thanks again... I'll keep you posted, and start my website as soon as I've got a few more photo's done and taken during my diagnostics, sound files etc....

It'd be really nice to compile all the CBX550F information around the web, into one place.

:-)

Date: Sat Apr 10 02:16:16 2004
Name: Richard W.
Type: CBX 550F

Hi Stan and Dave, Thanks for the comments.

My haynes manual came today; already read it front to back. Not amazingly helpfull.. unless of course you want to strip and rebuild the motor and box. and not much else!
Still, at least i've got torque wrench settings now etc..

I nearly bought a pair of RAASK rearsets for the bike, but at the last minute decided against it, as i'd lose my nice shiny allow hangers, for the black painted steel ones in the kit. Pitty, as the pegs and pedals in the kit where all nice and shiny alloy, drilled, knurled etc..

I think i'll look out for some front alloy foldable footpegs ( not the round variety though I'm not keen on those )

I think i should make a few sound recordings of the bike running so people can hear whats happening.

This thought lead me on to wonder why nobody has got soundfiles of a NORMAL/as it should be, cbx550f/f2 on a website...???? it'd be very handy to know what a NORMAL mint bike motor sounds like !

I'll experiment with the laptop and a cheap mic, and if it seems like it's going to work out, i'll have a hunt round for a better quality mic so i can record the full sound spectrum, and not just the upper frequencies as most cheap mic's do.

Having no under-cover working space. I'm very limited in what i can do, and it's been raining all week.. UGh!

I checked my front forks again today, and the hissy noise ( pumping them up and down ) is just the right-side fork gaitor ( phew! )

I found a website for genuine spares, but it's all by part number only, so unless you know the part number you need. you're stuffed!
http://www.johnoldfield.co.uk (telephone.. oh. you'll KNOW why i'm doing it this way..

zero, two, three, eight, zero, six, three, zero, three, two, six.

He's a main dealer for Yuasa and Agip apparently, and ships world wide.

Have'nt been able to compare his prices yet, as i dont have any part numbers to compare with !

I've had a mate round to hear the bike running, and he agree's the most noise ( clatter ) seems to be coming from the clutch cover area. Whilst in neutral, if you lightly lift the clutch lever armeture ( attatched to the cover ) taking up the slight play, you can FEEL the clatter, like a shaft slopping about in a bearing, or not quite engaged teeth of a cog etc.. i.e. it's a constant feedback, evenly spaced, not erratic or intermitent.
Pulling the clutch lever ( on handlebar ) i can get the noise to diminish slightly, and if i pop it into gear and begin to relaease the lever slowly, but not so much as to start the rear wheel turning.. it goes much quieter ( the clatter )..... Does this sound like a worn/knackered clutch bearing? or maybe knackered/worn clutch? ( although i can put it into gear, and apply the rear brake ( whilst on centre stand ) and not get clutch slip.

I'm going to investigate further, by removing the front chain sprocket, to see if thats the problem ( worn? looks ok ) then press down on the sprockets shaft whilst in neutral, to see if it's play in the output bearing.

Oh, ! it's stopped raining! I better get out and check those plugs!

I've got to put an order into David Silvers, and it'd be best to get as much as possible in one go, without having to buy stuff i dont need!

Thanks again... I'll keep you posted, and start my website as soon as I've got a few more photo's done and taken during my diagnostics, sound files etc....

It'd be really nice to compile all the CBX550F information around the web, into one place.

:-)

Date: Fri Apr  9 07:59:37 2004
Name: Dave
Email: sd1@telus.net
Type: CBX 550F

Hi Richard, look forward to seeing the website.

My '83 55f w/40k makes a little nasty soudin' chatter at at low rpm and a medium ticking at around 4k when you hold it steady. After a bit of research I've found they all seem to make a bit of noise, but not loud as you say.

Best of luck!

Dave.

Date: Fri Apr  9 05:35:43 2004
Name: Stan
Email: winchesternoguns@aol.com
Type: CBX 550F

Richard, it may be carburator related as you mention that one pipe is not as warm. A big misfire will rattle the engine.
Carb drains are the flat headed screws on the bottom side of each float bowl, turn them out a few turns to see what comes out. Water and rust? not good. Gas? okay. If nothing comes out the carbs are probable getting gummed up.
Plugs are 18mm deep socket. Tank is to come off with 12 mm bolt underseat at back of tank plus two hoses and a fuel gauge wire connection.

Check the oil on the dip stick. Does it have shiny bits of metal floating around?
Use a broom handle or long stick and use it as a stethoscope to try to pinpoint the source while running.
If there is metal flecks in the oil and the noise originates from the bottom end you may have a problem.
To confirm, pull the oil filter off and see what has collected there.

Wait for the manual.

Date: Thu Apr  8 03:05:32 2004
Name: Richard W
Type: CBX 550F

Just to add to my previous post.

Had a tinker today.. popped some oil in the motor, whipped off the airbox top and filter, gave a two second squirt of Bradex EasyStart, left for two mins, connected jump leads and HD car battery.. made sure fuel tap was on ( with 4 lires of fuel in the tank ) wound the throttle a few times popped the choke out a little, then hit the button ! TTTTTTTTTT VROOOM! ( CLATTER CLATTER CLATTER ! ) oh bloody hell! whats that !?
I was fully expecting to hear a top end cam chain rattling. but this was WAY louder and seemed to be coming from the clutch cover area..... ( bricking myself thinking i'd just killed something big time... maybe )
Plopping my NADS into a wheelbarrow... i carried on regardless.
It died quite a few times, but eventually I could start repeatedly after a one second press of the starter button. But that CLATTER CLATTER.. did'nt go. and it was LOUD.. nothing like a chain rattling away.. no this sounded REALLY bad. like I imagine a big end would sound on a car.. except it was coming from the clutch housing area! Er? grrrrrr what?

Any idea's?

So...... i might answer this myself.

Am i the First person to declare that i have.. over a great number of hours, but in the space of two days, READ EVERY SINGLE POST ON THIS BOARD!

I'm REALLY hoping the answer is that the carbs need balancing. and maybe this will solve the problem?
I cant take the bike to our bike shop as it's not mot'd taxed etc. ( i only bought it Sunday, and brought it home Monday evening )

I've bought a haynes manual ( and am awaiting it's arrival through the post ) and until then, i dont know how to drain the carbs. I cant see any valves etc.. I've not had the plugs out for a clean as I dont know what size socket i need or long box spanner? ( do i need to take the tank off to get the plugs out? ) I darent take the carbs OFF to dismantle and clean them for fear of opening something I dont have a gasket to put back together! eek.

Sorry, I'm going on here a bit are'nt i ( put it down to eagerness to get on with the LARGE task in hand )

So far. i know.... it runs ( just ) revs ok once warm though, but darent blip it past 5k stationary until I know whats what. ( and cure that LOUD BANGING THUMPING SHAKING NOISE! ) Clutch works, I pulled lever dropped it into 1st and released slowly ( whilst on centre stand ) brakes are binding a bit, so i'm not going to mess about, I'll just do a full strip and rebuild with new parts for my safety's sake ) er where was i ..? oh yes.. rear wheel turning in 1st, bike tends to jump about a bit like there's a stiff point on the chain or something internally once per revolution. all gear engage, but seem to have to stamp on the gear lever a bit to get them in.. bit clunky, and nowhere near a smooth change I'd expect from a Honda.

Moving back to front of motor... as i stand to the left side of bike ( front wheel to my left ) the second downpipe in from me, was getting no where near as warm as the others?? ( is that no.3 cyl I've heard so much about ? )

Further forwards now. motor swithced off...

When i push down on the forks ( sat astride the bike ) there's a sound of escaping air coming from the right fork side? and it happens on compression and release.. there's no oil leak, the legs are shiny and clean. ( i've got gaiters fitted ) but the front does seem unatuarally soft to push down on? I need to check to see if the forks hold air. but if not. what can be done? I'd like things to be as they should be.
I'm really keen to get on with sorting this bike out so i can get it MOT'd and on the road asap.

I'm so far, looking at two new hand grips ( must they be gen honda? ) seals and caliper pistons all round, plus pads ( any recommendations? i see M&P do EBC ones.. any good? the GREENSTUFF compound for cars is Great! )

TWO tyres. I'd liek a really Good matched pair 100/90-18 and 120/90-18 as these seem a good size.. or i might go with the metzeler 33 and 99 combo as mentioned by basmaf.
( it's got shagged Avons on at mo. and even worse. the rear is 100 not 110 )
I need plugs ( routine ) filters oil ( which is a GREAT OIL? not just grade like 10-40 15-40.. but make/manufacture please.

Sprockets.. chain... gear selecter rubber, rear brake cyl rubber boot, maybe i need a new clutch? how do i know? whats a worn one look like? carb clean balance.. ( but how! guess i'll have to buy a set of columns! 2 plus postage )
If i pay to have them balanced.. how long before they go OFF again ?
Finally.........
I wish my bike was a bit taller.... It feels RIGHT sitting on it whilst it's on it's centre stand ( seat at 810mm from ground ) but whilst it's on it's wheels with me not on it, seat height is 735mm and me on it it drops to 705mm which is pretty low... feels like I'm almost sitting on the ground! ( i've got long legs and I'm roughly 15.5stone )
What can I do to RAISE the bike? will pumping the shocks up front and rear do it? or will that just make it a harsh ride? is ther anything i can do to the rear shock mounting point or forks to get that extra 105mm of overall height ???
If i'd wanted to sit this low down, i'd have bought an NC21!! ( they're tiny ) It's very odd.. when i look at the CBX, it appears a big bike, but when i sit on it, it's like sitting on a low squishy sofa! YUK. what was i THINKING!!

any help would be VERY useful... yes i know. see, now I've typed all this. future postings need only be one or two lines
:-)

Date: Thu Apr  8 03:05:07 2004
Name: Richard W
Type: CBX 550F

Just to add to my previous post.

Had a tinker today.. popped some oil in the motor, whipped off the airbox top and filter, gave a two second squirt of Bradex EasyStart, left for two mins, connected jump leads and HD car battery.. made sure fuel tap was on ( with 4 lires of fuel in the tank ) wound the throttle a few times popped the choke out a little, then hit the button ! TTTTTTTTTT VROOOM! ( CLATTER CLATTER CLATTER ! ) oh bloody hell! whats that !?
I was fully expecting to hear a top end cam chain rattling. but this was WAY louder and seemed to be coming from the clutch cover area..... ( bricking myself thinking i'd just killed something big time... maybe )
Plopping my NADS into a wheelbarrow... i carried on regardless.
It died quite a few times, but eventually I could start repeatedly after a one second press of the starter button. But that CLATTER CLATTER.. did'nt go. and it was LOUD.. nothing like a chain rattling away.. no this sounded REALLY bad. like I imagine a big end would sound on a car.. except it was coming from the clutch housing area! Er? grrrrrr what?

Any idea's?

So...... i might answer this myself.

Am i the First person to declare that i have.. over a great number of hours, but in the space of two days, READ EVERY SINGLE POST ON THIS BOARD!

I'm REALLY hoping the answer is that the carbs need balancing. and maybe this will solve the problem?
I cant take the bike to our bike shop as it's not mot'd taxed etc. ( i only bought it Sunday, and brought it home Monday evening )

I've bought a haynes manual ( and am awaiting it's arrival through the post ) and until then, i dont know how to drain the carbs. I cant see any valves etc.. I've not had the plugs out for a clean as I dont know what size socket i need or long box spanner? ( do i need to take the tank off to get the plugs out? ) I darent take the carbs OFF to dismantle and clean them for fear of opening something I dont have a gasket to put back together! eek.

Sorry, I'm going on here a bit are'nt i ( put it down to eagerness to get on with the LARGE task in hand )

So far. i know.... it runs ( just ) revs ok once warm though, but darent blip it past 5k stationary until I know whats what. ( and cure that LOUD BANGING THUMPING SHAKING NOISE! ) Clutch works, I pulled lever dropped it into 1st and released slowly ( whilst on centre stand ) brakes are binding a bit, so i'm not going to mess about, I'll just do a full strip and rebuild with new parts for my safety's sake ) er where was i ..? oh yes.. rear wheel turning in 1st, bike tends to jump about a bit like there's a stiff point on the chain or something internally once per revolution. all gear engage, but seem to have to stamp on the gear lever a bit to get them in.. bit clunky, and nowhere near a smooth change I'd expect from a Honda.

Moving back to front of motor... as i stand to the left side of bike ( front wheel to my left ) the second downpipe in from me, was getting no where near as warm as the others?? ( is that no.3 cyl I've heard so much about ? )

Further forwards now. motor swithced off...

When i push down on the forks ( sat astride the bike ) there's a sound of escaping air coming from the right fork side? and it happens on compression and release.. there's no oil leak, the legs are shiny and clean. ( i've got gaiters fitted ) but the front does seem unatuarally soft to push down on? I need to check to see if the forks hold air. but if not. what can be done? I'd like things to be as they should be.
I'm really keen to get on with sorting this bike out so i can get it MOT'd and on the road asap.

I'm so far, looking at two new hand grips ( must they be gen honda? ) seals and caliper pistons all round, plus pads ( any recommendations? i see M&P do EBC ones.. any good? the GREENSTUFF compound for cars is Great! )

TWO tyres. I'd liek a really Good matched pair 100/90-18 and 120/90-18 as these seem a good size.. or i might go with the metzeler 33 and 99 combo as mentioned by basmaf.
( it's got shagged Avons on at mo. and even worse. the rear is 100 not 110 )
I need plugs ( routine ) filters oil ( which is a GREAT OIL? not just grade like 10-40 15-40.. but make/manufacture please.

Sprockets.. chain... gear selecter rubber, rear brake cyl rubber boot, maybe i need a new clutch? how do i know? whats a worn one look like? carb clean balance.. ( but how! guess i'll have to buy a set of columns! 2 plus postage )
If i pay to have them balanced.. how long before they go OFF again ?
Finally.........
I wish my bike was a bit taller.... It feels RIGHT sitting on it whilst it's on it's centre stand ( seat at 810mm from ground ) but whilst it's on it's wheels with me not on it, seat height is 735mm and me on it it drops to 705mm which is pretty low... feels like I'm almost sitting on the ground! ( i've got long legs and I'm roughly 15.5stone )
What can I do to RAISE the bike? will pumping the shocks up front and rear do it? or will that just make it a harsh ride? is ther anything i can do to the rear shock mounting point or forks to get that extra 105mm of overall height ???
If i'd wanted to sit this low down, i'd have bought an NC21!! ( they're tiny ) It's very odd.. when i look at the CBX, it appears a big bike, but when i sit on it, it's like sitting on a low squishy sofa! YUK. what was i THINKING!!

any help would be VERY useful... yes i know. see, now I've typed all this. future postings need only be one or two lines
:-)

Date: Mon Apr  5 17:08:16 2004
Name: Richard W.
Type: CBX 550F

Hi, just bought myself an '83 550F with 31k on it.
Not been run for 8 months and tank has been nearly empty that long so is a little worse for wear internally.
Need a bunch of stuff for it, so i'm looking at M&P, David Silver etc....
Does anyone have a GREAT tyre recomendation?
I saw someone used ME33 and ME99 ( basmaf? ).. all i can find though is ME33 and ME99A ? is that the same?

I'm going to make a website, with as many photo's as possible for this bike, starting with pictures from the day I pick it up ( tonight !) right through all the jobs that need done, or I feel could be done better than they currently are.

As I've not had it started yet, I dont know if there's the dreaded Camchain prob, but with jump leads and a decent 12v battery, it span over fine, no odd noises etc.
Wish me luck ! ( I might need it ! )

Date: Wed Mar 31 04:55:26 2004
Name: Harry Teicher

Chris
Check voltage across battery at idle and at, say, 4000rpm. I forget the values, but if the voltage doesnt increase to 13-14V you have an electrical problem. If the voltage does increase, you have a dying battery. My guess is that if it is only around idle you have a problem, but things are fine above say 3000rpm then your battery is a dud (the charging system takes over ignition once it kicks in at above-idle speeds).

Date: Wed Mar 31 04:01:33 2004
Name: Chris Harwood
Type: CBX 550F2 (Integra)

Fitted new coils and spark unit. Still the same prob. Stripped carbs down and the jets were full of shite. Cleaned them and reassembled. Much better now but I have also found that the battery is isn't charging. On a low battery, if i press the horn the bike stalls, same with anything electrical (indicators etc). Would this, the flat battery, cause a weak spark and hence poor idling?
And if the electrics are failing at idle would that suggest the alternator is shot?

Chris

Date: Tue Mar 30 17:03:15 2004
Name: Chris
Type: CBX 550F2 (Integra)

Cheers fellas. Funnily enough I have just bought some second hand coils, HT leads and an ignition unit off Ebay. I'll fit them first and see what happens. Then failing that its carb srtip down time by the sounds of it.

I'll post a reprt on my success (or not)

Cheers Chris in the UK.

Date: Tue Mar 30 13:34:49 2004
Name: Ben
Type: CBX 550F

Hi Chris , you should check the carb. on your bike specially if it have been stored for some times . I found on one CBX that I bought a few years ago a jet in the bowl and another clogged ! Of course it was running like a pig at idle .

Ben in Quebec city waiting for the snow to melt ( not until mid April )